A Chicken in Every Pot

Day 3.

We were picked up at our Li Jiang hotel at 7:30, and our guide and driver took us 3 hours to a small town called Shaxi, a relatively untouched village in a charming valley.
379c Valley

In the hills above Shaxi we stopped at an interesting temple built into the side of the cliffs. As I viewed the entrance and the 1,000 steps behind it, I was both dismayed and determined. Incidentally, the “urinate” sign I showed you in Day 2 was in fact located in the restroom to the right.380 Shaxi temple entrance

Off to the left of the entrance were some interesting carvings on the rock wall.
381 Carvings

Halfway way up I looked up at my destination…382 Cliff

…and down whence I came,
383 Steps

…and all you could get out of me at the time was really heavy breathing and a breathless “I’m OK, I’m OK.”

We finally reached the main temple, which was loaded with Buddhas of every color…
??????????

(in at least two meanings of the word)…,??????????

…and thus had only a few thousand more steps (i.e., 50) to get to the upper part of the temple.386 Upper temple

It reminded me of a monastery my wife and I saw in Greece.
387 Upper temple 2

Up here we encountered playful monkeys,…
388 Monkey

…a dripping waterfall,…
389 Waterfall

…and a sign with spacing problems.
390 Sign

It was early in the day, and I think we might have been the first visitors. Soon there were others…
391 Child

whose sole purpose for their visit seemed to be to bribe the monkeys with junk food.
393 Monkey 2

The golden happy Buddha called out to FII to stop and pay homage.
392 Golden buddha

FII and I started to head down when we simultaneously wondered aloud how these monks were supplied with the staples of life. The answer was supplied almost immediately by these old but clearly tough women.394 Women

We left the temple, drove a short way, and descended into a ravine to see an old grotto,…
395 Grotto

…only to have to climb back up. (Heavy breathing.)

In the town of Shaxi, we were taken to a house/restaurant with an unusual circular entrance,…396 Restaurant entrance

…a charming courtyard,…
397 Restaurant courtyard

…and an even more charming chef/mother/hostess (the one on the right).
398 Chef and I

No written menu. We were ushered into the kitchen…
399 Kitchen

…and shown the cooler with the veggies she had on hand that day.
399b Cooler with veggies

She asked us what meat we wanted. I don’t remember how we responded, but the result was our hostess going out to the courtyard, standing on a small chair, and grabbing one of the 50 pieces of meat hanging just above us.
400 Getting meat

So, while we sat in the courtyard sipping tea,
401 Me in courtyard

…our chef chopped…
402 Chef chopping

…and stir-fried,…
403 Chef stir-frying

…her way to a delicious lunch of 4 different dishes. The meat in this dish tasted like country ham.
404 Meat dish

After we said our farewells, our guide took us to our “hotel”…
405 Hotel sign

…that, despite the cold weather, had a nice yellow shrub in its courtyard.
406 Yellow shrub

After being dumped by our guide, then dumping our stuff in our room,…
407 Room

…ignoring the complimentary safe-sex accessories on the middle table,…
408 Prophylactics

…we headed out to tour the town. We went first downhill about a block to the river, which turned out to be an upper section of the Mekong (from Vietnam War notoriety),…
409 River

…part of which was diverted to create this picturesque canal along the new riverside park.
410 Canal

From what we saw of this town, it is in the process of positioning itself as a tourist destination for savvy but not high discriminating travelers.

We headed back through the “old town,”…
411 Old town

…spotting more of those strange trucks…
412 Truck 1

413 Truck 2

…and little carts powered by motorcycle engines.
414 Motorcycle cart

It was an interesting town with lots going on, even though the weather was overcast and occasionally a little rainy. This couple was selling some meat they butchered.
415 Meat sellers

We weren’t quite sure what the meat was, but an errant piece beneath the table gave us a hint,…
416 Pig's head back

…later confirmed by a different view.
417 Pig's head front

Friday is market day in Shaxi, and we heard it is wild and crazy. We were there on a Monday.
418 Market

As soon as I took out my camera, the girl on the right in the hooded jacket pulled up her hood so she wouldn’t be photographed, while the woman in green was hamming it up.
421 Mah jong

Some locals evidently keep, at least temporarily, their pet fish in the gutter.
422 Fish in gutter

This couple was plucking a chicken on the sidewalk. Sorry the photo’s a little blurry, but I felt I should be surreptitious in obtaining.
419 Chicken plucking

At least they were being moderately fastidious.
420 Chicken feathers

We must have had dinner, but I can’t remember where, so it mustn’t have been very memorable. Maybe chicken. Either that or my memory is failing – but we know that can’t be.

That was Day 3.

保罗